The celebrated chef Francis Mallman once wrote, “Whatever weather the gods hurl my way, as long as I have wood or charcoal, a place to kindle a flame, and some way to expose ingredients to the heat of the fire, I know I can make a fine meal.”
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For the time-crunched and efficiency-focused, gas propane fits the fuel for fire bill just fine. For the more intrepid outdoor cook with a few more minutes and a keen eye for flavor, charcoal is the ideal firekeeper.
But the more you look beyond the standard briquette, the more you realize it’s likely the least effective version of a non-propane fuel source. And of all the alternative fuels that are recommended for grilling, a speciality type of charcoal called binchotan stands alone.
What is binchotan charcoal?
Binchotan is a specific type of charcoal that’s widely used in Japanese restaurants. It’s the traditional choice when cooking in a pair of tiny Japanese grills called konro or robata. Sometimes more generally referred to as “white charcoal,” it has no competition regarding carbon purity, heat consistency and endurance.
The Bincho Grill Store Bincotan Charcoal
According to Knifewear, the product is named “after a charcoal maker in Tanabe, Wakayama prefecture, Bicchuya Chozaemon, who started selling this type of charcoal (Tan) in late 17th Century.” Bi, Cho, Tan.
If the name sounds familiar, it may be because binchotan scrapings are now an in-vogue ingredient added to everything from candle wax to hand creams.
Sometimes referred to as “white charcoal,” binchotan has no competition regarding carbon purity, heat consistency and endurance.
Various products sold as binchotan share similar qualities, but like multiple forms of fine whiskeys and wines, the best incarnation of the Japanese grilling fuel is created by a small group of craftsmen from specific regions, many of whose families have made the unique fuel for generations.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/fKhT4C0F1vg?feature=oembedThis video and six others in the collection showcase various stages of the bichotan creation process, from wood harvesting to finish. They are tedious, but also vividly emphasize how much of a hands-on process making bichotan is. Thanks to the folks over at Knifewear.com for shedding light on their existence.
It must also check a few boxes to be considered truly authentic.
- It must be made from Japanese Ubame Oak, which is known for its density and hardness, as well as its difficulty to harvest.
- It should be sourced from one of several major production areas or prefectures of Japan: Wakayama, Kochi, Tosa or Miyazaki.
- And the real kicke, as MyCookware.com.au outlines in great detail, the raw Ubame Oak should undergo a two week long process of drying and burning, at one point reaching extreme temperatures of up to 1000 degrees centigrade, before eventually being extinguished with white ash. That later step is what gives the wood its whitish grey color.
As Lance Henderstein details in his BBC article “The secret to Japanese grilling,” a process that limits and refines the amount of oxygen reaching the burning wood is key, since it ultimately allows the wood to hold on to its carbon.
Scientifically, this process of burning off materials at high temperatures is known as Pyrolysis, which when performed to an extreme degree, results in a more familiarly name process — carbonization.
Typical charcoal’s carbon content hovers in the mid 70 percent range. Properly made binchotan’s carbon content hovers in the mid 90 percent range.
What makes binchotan so special?
https://www.youtube.com/embed/r2TCmQolAAg?feature=oembedAs the chef shows immediately at the start the video, good bichotan clinks like glass when you knock pieces together.
Its cooking benefits are clear — it can burn at a very consistent temperature for very long periods. Users can even extinguish binchotan after a grilling session and relight it multiple times later if any is still left.
And because it’s made with no chemicals or other toxic products, it cooks cleaner than the briquettes or lump coal you’ll find at a local hardware store.
However, keep in mind, attempting to light binchotan using accelerants like lighter fluid would be a huge mistake. Instead, using a charcoal chimney is the way to go, according to binchotan experts.
Where can I find binchotan?
In Japan, mostly. And possibly the internet. While we can easily find links to products labeled binchotan online that’ll ship directly to your door, a few of which we’ve included below, we’ll be clear that we can’t vouch for the quality of the product from any of them.
This stuff is clearly hard to come by and treasured enough within its own country of origin that it doesn’t appear to escape easily — like Japanese Whisky and many other excellent Japanese goods (and weird ones, too).
Still, even if you can’t find the most authentic incarnation of the fuel, sampling versions made elsewhere using similar techniques could also be an enjoyable culinary experience.
The Bincho Grill Store Bincotan Charcoal
How much does binchotan cost?
The catch, of course, is the price tag. Like any labor-intensive product meticulously crafted by artisans, binchotan’s price per pound can far exceed what you’d pay for basic charcoal.
For the most detailed breakdown of binchotan distinctions, we’d encourage you to dig into Knifewear‘s Guide to Bichotan Types.
At a higher level, like wine, the differences in binchotan start with the region where it is made. Wakayama-sourced binchotan is generally regarded as the best since the region is credited for inventing and mastering the process.
What can be confusing when shopping for binchotan is that Wakayama-sourced binchotan is often labeled as “Kishu,” in reference to the name of the original Kishu province that today is part of the Wakayama Prefecture.
Beyond its source of origin, the grade and cut of the binchotan, is the next most influential factor in its quality and price.
What are some binchotan alternatives to try?
Not ready to step up to the big leagues? Consider one of the following alternative grilling fuels that can also help add new dimensions to your food.
Quebracho Charchoal
Kalamazoo Gourmet Quebracho Charcoal
With a name derived from quebrar hacha, or “ax-breaker,” you can probably guess what quebracho is known for. The exceptional hardwood tree makes for exceptionally long-burning lump coal that hardly smokes, doesn’t create much ash, smells fragrant and reaches temperatures hot enough for any job.
There are many types of quebracho tree, which are all native to South America, but the most coveted (for grilling and smoking, at least) is quebracho blanco, like this one from Kalamazoo Gourmet.
Coconut Charcoal
Blazing Coco Coconut Shell Charcoal Logs
Coconut charcoal is another hotter, longer-burning alternative to the forlorn briquette, and it’s easily the most flavor-neutral and environmentally friendly of them all.
When cooking, the coconut shell hardly smokes and it reaches higher temperatures for longer durations than normal briquettes (its largest use remains in smelting and industrial manufacturing for this reason).
